"The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is dark, rich and seductive from the first tilt of the glass. Here I find a mix of black cherry and crushed plums complemented by notes of cinnamon, clove and violet florals. This is silky yet savory, with a dense core of tart blackberry neatly wrapped in a web of salty minerals and fine tannins. In spite of its structure and weight, the 2016 from La Colombina maintains freshness and energy throughout, sometimes seeming more like food than wine through a sense of umami that starts on the palate and lingers throughout the long finish."